The wheels are turning, and there is a smile across my chubby cheeks. After a chilled few days of doing nothing, it feels great to be on the road again. I love the ease of leaving a hostel. No tent to put down, dry-out and systemically fold to fit into its small holdall bag. However, the thought of camping tonight feels good, camping next to Lake Ohrid. It doesn't sound glam, but that all depends on the pronunciation. Lake Ohrid, pronounced Ochrid, is a very old and very big lake. It is reported to be the deepest lake in Europe, at 1,000ft. I decide against trying to touch the bottom. Ohrid, the town, once used to be Macedonia's capital. I look forward to going from new to old.
The roads are fantastic, very little traffic, well kept and every uphill section has a crawler lane. The traffic lights even have a timer which counts down. I love this, not so I can encroach into the junction early, like a lot of the locals do. It just allows me to put Suzi into neutral and have a bit of a stretch. My goodness though, make sure you are ready to go when the lights turn green. The locals don't thank you for adding a two second delay to their journey!
The lake comes into view quietly and peacefully. I actually have to do a double-take to make sure it is a lake. It is enormous. The giveaway is that there are no trees or buildings in the vast area.
I nearly skid to a stop to allow three pedestrians to cross the road. I wasn't intentionally trying to draw attention to myself. The road is that well-worn with the slightest touch of the bake brake I am leaving rubber. I am immediately set upon, like an injured wildebeest in the open. The apartment totes, unlike in Split, are mobile. Three pedal up to me and block my route. The female comes over so aggressive I am happy to wish her a good day and ride on. A few corners later and there is no-one on the street. Perfect, I can get my map out and locate this campsite. Before I have chance to unfold it, one of them is on me.
I put up a good fight but cecum to the fact the campsite is 15km out of town. As 'Vic' points out, it is shut. Mind you, he would say that, wouldn't he? Eight Euros and ten minutes later and I am striding purposefully through the medieval capital of Macedonia
Within a few yards I am tucking into the best lunch of my travels thus far. A cross between a pastry and bread envelope filled with a pizza filling. Not bad for about 30p.
Ohrid is fantastic. It has a charm, a style and I sense that it knows how to play to a crowd. In the Old Town there are more bars than people. On days like this I am pleased to be travelling out of season. I do the three main tourist sites. The Fortress, the Pantaljemon and St John's Church. This is tipped as the best of the 365 churches around Orhid, and with its spectacular location and beautiful views it is easy to see why. Two sides slope into the lake tranquil lingering some 20 metres below.
I stand in the church and the thought comes to me that I have spat further than the length and breadth of the building. Ten people inside would make it a crowded house.
The fortress wasn't as grand as I was hoping, but it did giving stunning views across the lake. The final attraction is the Pantaljemon is a new build. They have recreated the old building stone for stone. Perspex has been built into the floor to allow enthusiastic architects a glimpse of how they have seamlessly built on top of the old foundations. As I walk away listening to religious speaking and teaching, I catch a faint monotonous hum. Its a cement mixer tucked out of sight. Well unless you have prying eyes!
The Pantaljemon is currently sat in what appears to be a mass excavation site. Unlike Stari Bar in Montenegro, work is going on with full steam ahead to get the ruins up to their former glory. I realise my heart belongs to a simpler time. I would have loved to see Ohrid's Old Town before it was left to crumble.
Hands down the medieval capital captures mind, body and soul over the 'new' capital.
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