As I wait in line slowly edging towards the border I suddenly realise I am a little hesitant. Two thoughts dawn on me. The first, I am heading towards a monster of a man who is carrying a gun. The second, I realise I am heading into a country I know nothing about. With the other Slovak countries I had at least spoken to people who had been. No-one I know has been to Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH). My guide book of Europe even excludes BiH - so I only have my gut instinct and Micheal Palin's New Europe to guide me. I slowly roll on the throttle and apprehensively ride from Croatia into Herzegovina.
I plan to use the New Europe route for the next few stops, first up Medugorje.
A few signs to the middle of nowhere then one corner later and you are face-to-face with what feels like a bustling city street. Bus load after bus load of people are unloaded like livestock at a cattle market, the only difference is that the person in control has a clipboard rather than a cattle prod.
It takes me about two minutes to realise that the way forward is to stay on two wheels. I head to Cross Mountain. Which on reflection, if not religious, the end product may not be worth the steep climb and the jagged rocks. It is without a doubt the hardest hike I have ever done. Mind you, biker boots and trousers didn't help and didn't fit in with others who where singing and recanting Bible passages.
Apparition Hill followed Cross Mountain. It is a shorter route but still very tough terrain. Apparition Hill is the reason for people's pilgrimage to Medugorje. In 1981 The Virgin Mary and Child appeared to six children. She returns to one lady still to this day. Palin sums up well by suggesting a cynic would think this a great way of creating jobs and bringing a lot of money into a very poor area pre-1981. I must be a cynic; I ride away with mixed feelings. My next destination though is certainly one that has had the whole world's eyes on it.
War and Peace - you can't have one without the other
I understand the logic, but as you stroll around Mostar, a city gutted in 1993 as a result of war, I find the reasoning for war hard to agree with.
I find myself standing on the peak of the Old Bridge in Mostar. A bridge that was bombarded until it lay in the river flowing beneath.
The bridge has been fully restored to the exact specifications of its predecessor. Although it took on day longer than when it was first built in the 16th century. Upon the completion, a crowd gathered. One larger than the population of the city gathered to witness and celebrate the new Old Bridge.
It was the last bridge to be destroyed by the Croat guns.To the people of Mostar, the bridge was more than just a means of crossing the river. The bridge represented strength and unity, something guns cannot break.
I was shown around the old town by a very exuberant guide called Asim. He spoke of the old bridge and its replica, a smaller identical one in the city. Well it was identical, this bridge also fell in 1993, and when it was rebuilt, there's a slight difference. Asim isn't upset about this, he just shrugs and says "There is a tradition in Mostar. We have a war every 50 years. So in 30 years we will replace it properly". His attitude, like other Bosniaks I have spoken to, is quite blaze and very matter of fact. Although Mostar still bears the scars of war all around.
Walking around the Old Town, Asim seems not to pay any attention to the bullet holes in the abandoned shells of buildings.These derelict buildings stand side by side with new shops and hotels. A strange feeling comes over you while walking around here. My thoughts linger with the reason these buildings still stand. Is it so people don't forget, so people can take solace in the fact they survived, or a memorial to those who died fighting?
I like to think it is because of strength and unity and what hardships people have gone through so others can live.
I plan to use the New Europe route for the next few stops, first up Medugorje.
A few signs to the middle of nowhere then one corner later and you are face-to-face with what feels like a bustling city street. Bus load after bus load of people are unloaded like livestock at a cattle market, the only difference is that the person in control has a clipboard rather than a cattle prod.
It takes me about two minutes to realise that the way forward is to stay on two wheels. I head to Cross Mountain. Which on reflection, if not religious, the end product may not be worth the steep climb and the jagged rocks. It is without a doubt the hardest hike I have ever done. Mind you, biker boots and trousers didn't help and didn't fit in with others who where singing and recanting Bible passages.
Apparition Hill followed Cross Mountain. It is a shorter route but still very tough terrain. Apparition Hill is the reason for people's pilgrimage to Medugorje. In 1981 The Virgin Mary and Child appeared to six children. She returns to one lady still to this day. Palin sums up well by suggesting a cynic would think this a great way of creating jobs and bringing a lot of money into a very poor area pre-1981. I must be a cynic; I ride away with mixed feelings. My next destination though is certainly one that has had the whole world's eyes on it.
War and Peace - you can't have one without the other
I understand the logic, but as you stroll around Mostar, a city gutted in 1993 as a result of war, I find the reasoning for war hard to agree with.
I find myself standing on the peak of the Old Bridge in Mostar. A bridge that was bombarded until it lay in the river flowing beneath.
The bridge has been fully restored to the exact specifications of its predecessor. Although it took on day longer than when it was first built in the 16th century. Upon the completion, a crowd gathered. One larger than the population of the city gathered to witness and celebrate the new Old Bridge.
It was the last bridge to be destroyed by the Croat guns.To the people of Mostar, the bridge was more than just a means of crossing the river. The bridge represented strength and unity, something guns cannot break.
I was shown around the old town by a very exuberant guide called Asim. He spoke of the old bridge and its replica, a smaller identical one in the city. Well it was identical, this bridge also fell in 1993, and when it was rebuilt, there's a slight difference. Asim isn't upset about this, he just shrugs and says "There is a tradition in Mostar. We have a war every 50 years. So in 30 years we will replace it properly". His attitude, like other Bosniaks I have spoken to, is quite blaze and very matter of fact. Although Mostar still bears the scars of war all around.
Walking around the Old Town, Asim seems not to pay any attention to the bullet holes in the abandoned shells of buildings.These derelict buildings stand side by side with new shops and hotels. A strange feeling comes over you while walking around here. My thoughts linger with the reason these buildings still stand. Is it so people don't forget, so people can take solace in the fact they survived, or a memorial to those who died fighting?
I like to think it is because of strength and unity and what hardships people have gone through so others can live.
3 comments:
Wow, your experiences sound amazing! Am really impressed with the way you have gotten stuck in! Plus bro- you write really well! Am suspicious - do you have a thesaurus?? He He x
very poetic writing Mr Matthews, i think that you could be the next Mr Palin. Publish this and you could be a Millionaire this time next year....'Matthews motorcyles through Europe' it a winner! xx
Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!
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